James Keller has been making leather goods in his Massachusetts workshop for 15 years. His bags, wallets, and belts are known for their durability and honest design. We discussed material sourcing, construction methods, and designing for decades of use.
On Material Selection
What makes good leather?
Full-grain leather from quality tanneries. “Full-grain” means the top surface layer is intact—all the natural grain and texture preserved. It’s the strongest part of the hide.
Most commercial leather is “corrected grain”—sanded down to remove imperfections, then embossed with fake texture. It looks consistent but lacks durability. Those bags falling apart after two years? That’s corrected grain.
Where do you source leather?
American tanneries, primarily Horween in Chicago and Wickett & Craig in Pennsylvania. These are vegetable-tanned leathers—tanned using plant-based tannins rather than chromium salts.
Veg-tan leather develops patina. Chromium-tanned leather just wears out. I want my bags to look better after 10 years, not worse.
Isn’t leather environmentally problematic?
It’s complicated. Leather is a byproduct of meat production—the hides would otherwise be waste. Using them is arguably better than synthetic alternatives made from petroleum.
The tanning process can be harmful—chromium tanning especially. That’s why I use vegetable-tanned leather. The process uses tree bark extracts and takes longer, but it’s less toxic.
Is it perfect? No. But I’d rather make durable leather goods that last decades than synthetic bags that landfill after three years.
On Craft & Construction
Your stitching is very visible. Why not hide it?
Because it’s structural. The stitching holds everything together—why pretend it doesn’t exist?
I use saddle stitching—two needles, hand-stitched through each hole from both directions. It creates a locked stitch. If one thread breaks, the stitch doesn’t unravel. Machine stitching uses one continuous thread—break it anywhere, the whole seam can fail.
Yes, it takes longer. A wallet that takes 5 minutes to machine-stitch takes me 45 minutes to hand-stitch. But it’ll last 20+ years instead of 3.
Do you use any adhesives?
Minimal. Contact cement where layers need to stay aligned during stitching, but the structural integrity comes from stitching, not glue. Glue degrades; stitching doesn’t.
On Design Philosophy
Your designs are quite plain. Is that intentional?
Absolutely. I’m not a fashion designer—I’m a craftsman. My job is to make bags that function brilliantly and last forever. Decoration is distraction.
Simple designs also age better. A minimalist leather bag looks the same in 2026 and 2046. A trendy design looks dated after five years.
How do you balance aesthetics and function?
Function determines form. The bag needs specific pockets for specific items. The strap needs to sit comfortably on the shoulder. The leather needs to be thick enough for structure but not so thick it’s rigid.
Once function is solved, aesthetics emerge from good proportions and quality execution. You don’t need to add beauty—it’s already there in honest design.
On Durability & Repairability
You offer lifetime repairs. Why?
Because I want my bags used, not landfilled. If a strap breaks or stitching loosens after years of hard use, I’ll fix it. Often for free, sometimes for material cost.
This isn’t pure altruism—it’s good business. Customers who know they can repair something are more likely to spend more upfront. They’re investing, not just purchasing.
What’s the most common repair?
Strap replacement. Straps take the most stress—weight, friction, UV exposure. Even quality leather eventually fatigues. But replacing a strap takes an hour and costs $30 in materials. The customer gets effectively a new bag.
Do you design for repairability?
Always. I avoid rivets—they’re permanent. I use Chicago screws (removable) so hardware can be replaced. Stitching is accessible for re-stitching. Every component is replaceable.
Planned obsolescence is evil. I design for the opposite—planned longevity.
On Sustainable Packaging
How do you ship bags?
In recycled cardboard boxes with minimal padding—usually just recycled paper. Leather goods are tough; they don’t need excessive protection.
I used to include cloth dust bags, but customers told me they never use them. So I stopped. Eliminating unnecessary packaging is more sustainable than making “eco-friendly” packaging.
What about branding?
Each bag has a small leather stamp on the interior—my maker’s mark. No exterior logos, no hang tags, no shopping bags. The object speaks for itself.
If someone asks where your bag is from, you tell them. That’s better marketing than plastering logos everywhere.
Final Thoughts
What do you want customers to understand about your work?
That price and value are different. A $400 bag that lasts 20 years costs $20/year. A $80 bag that lasts 2 years costs $40/year.
I’m not expensive—I’m an investment. And unlike most investments, this one you get to use every day.
What’s your hope for the leather craft industry?
That people rediscover the value of durable goods. We’ve been conditioned to expect disposability—$30 wallets, $50 bags, replace them every couple years.
But there’s growing pushback. People are tired of things breaking. They want objects that last, that develop character, that become part of their lives.
If my work contributes to that shift—even slightly—then I’ve done something worthwhile.
James Keller’s leather goods are available through his workshop website. Current lead time is 6-8 weeks due to hand-production methods.